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I have a kleemann supercharged 1999 E55 it is nearly 500hp and now im upgrading the car to 600-620 hp but i have a problem ((((wheel spin))))
I fixed:
1-Michline pilot sport cup tyres but on the original wheels 265/35 R18.
2-LSD Limited Slip Differential from kleemann.

What else could help to reduce the wheel spin?

Anybody have an experience please help...

[ree]

Wow, it sounds like the car is absolutely overpowered!! I'm sorry, but I don't have an idea to fix the problem. You already use wide tyres...but maybe there is the possibility to get some wider ones for more traction.

[DaSilva]

By some Carrera GT tires or Lamborghini LP640 tires or eaven try Bugatti Veyron tires! Good luck..

500-600 BHP needs real rubber!

[coolraoul]

I'm sorry, I don't really see a solution...

The tyres are excellent and already quite wide, and you have a LSD...
By Kleeman it is a Detroit-locker, right? Not a LSD, but a differential locker...but that's the same effect.

Be gentle with the throttle in the first 2 or 3 gears...is the only solution I see.
You also can let the ESP full-on and enjoy a tenth of the power...

I don't think you can retro-fit a Launch Control, do you? And it is not really what you want...

You could try to see the technical data of a 65 AMG, with 620hp like your car, and see what are the differences with yours in the drivetrain/tyres, maybe you could find an idea here. Or have a look at some big Brabus to see if they have something you don't. Have you asked Kleeman if they have something for you?

[Zonda]

Took this from another forum where someone asked pretty much the same thing. Credit to Pete.

Let's think about this for a second. What you need is grip. How do you get grip?

More surface area. This would equal wider tires and zero camber.

More pressure to the ground. Of course the easiest way is to add weight over the driving wheels, but who'd want added weight? However, you could move the engine back, and have the gearbox at the rear axle instead of the back of the engine, but that'd require some serious modifications. An easier way to achieve this is to build a suspension geometry that raises the rear instead of lowering it when accelerating. A force equal to the force raising the rear will be applied to the ground. This, however works vice versa when decelerating, so when you brake the rear will drop and the grip will be lower.

So, we've established that the suspension is working while accelerating. You don't want it to work against you, right? Therefore you'll need a suspension, that'll keep the camber same (zero), no matter how high it sits.

Last but not least, for optimal acceleration, the grip must be optimized between the tires. A cunning torsen diff, a spool or a very tight LSD would give you this, the last 2 mostly in drag stip conditions though. If you want to get all anal about it, you should also balance the weight of the car (with the driver included), so that it divides equally to the rear tires

[MB_AD]

Thanks alot for every body tried to help me..

but the suspension is new thing for me i did not know that would help i will ask kleemann if they know about it.

about 65 AMG they have a differet type of differential lock something like clutch plates and pressure rings to distribute power mechanically to the rear wheels based on individual wheel slip and thats a different world.

i will ask kleemann to play with chip tuning to reduce the power at lower RPM if it is possible because i dont want all this power from zero.

thanks again but if you find another solutions please tell me about it

[monster]

Lower the tyre pressure? That will increase grip but the tyre will heat up more quickly and increase wear.

[Guibo]

"i will ask kleemann to play with chip tuning to reduce the power at lower RPM if it is possible because i dont want all this power from zero."
This is likely the best solution. You may also be able to lock out 1st gear; some cars nowadays actually start out from second gear, as I recall. Additionally, you may fit a numerically shorter final drive, effectively making the gearing taller. This will reduce the torque multiplication. A side benefit is reduced RPM at highway cruising speed; good for fuel economy and noise.


For tires, there are some out there with lower treadwear ratings (generally softer, but not always) or tires which put more rubber to the surface. P-Zero Corsas, Yokohama Advan A048, Toyo R888, and various Hoosiers and Kumhos. If you don't have a lot of standing water in your area (not likely a problem in Abu Dhabi?), then these will work fine:
Hoosier Ecsta V710 with treadwear of 30 (vs 80 for MPSC).


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[MB_AD]

those type pf tyre needs to be too warm to give you a good grip but the reducing of tyre pressure may be a good one

[Guibo]

^If you read the reviews for the MPSC's, it seems those tires are even more sensitive to proper temps.
"Folks, do not use these tires for AUTOCROSS. Period! They do have to be warmed up and you just cant do this at most events*. I changed from PS2 to Cups and I was like the car was on ice."

*This is because at an autocross event, you spend most of the time sitting in the car, waiting your turn, or pushing it up to the start line. You get 1, maybe 2, sighting laps before your timed run. The MPSC's are still cold. Meanwhile, the Kumhos are popular and highly rated among autocrossers.
"The v710 is amazing for autocross. It warms fast, stays predictable throughout, corners in like on rails."

I think maybe the MPSC's could be part of your traction problem. Unless you are really on them constantly, they might not be any better than regular tires.